Equipment Review: Trad Climbing Quickdraws

This is a review of a variety of trad climbing specific quickdraw. As such we judged them on their lightness but above all just how useable they were. Whilst the Wild Country, Ocun, Petzl and DMM Quickdraws all performed well in testing. In that they were all good at clipping the equipment and the rope into them. The Eledrid and the Camp quickdraw despite being super light lacked usability for the reviewer. More than that though they were so small as to produce a negative psychological effect in several climbers who used them during a 6 month review process. Whilst the reviewer accepts that the karabiners are safe that negative psychological effect has to be mentioned in this review as climbing is as much a head game as a physical one.

Below is a video highlighting some of the pro’s and cons of these quickdraw sets.

Quickdraw lengths Krab Weight cost Usability strength Overall
Wild Country – Wild Wire 10cm, 15cm, 20cm 38 grams £12 Good 29kN Good
Eldrid – Nineteen G 12cm, 18cm 19 grams £21 (18cm) Poor 20Kn Poor
Camp 10cm – maybe less? 23 grams £14.50 Poor Poor Poor
Ocun – Kestrel 15cm 25 grams £10.95 Good 23kN Good
DMM – Alpha Trad 12cm, 18cm, 25cm 34 grams £21.50 (18cm) Excellent 24kN Excellent
Petzl – Ange 10cm, 17cm 34 grams £20.95 Good 20kn Good

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