Funding Climbing: The BMC and Commercialisation

Funding Climbing: The BMC and Commercialisation

Nearly 10 years into the Austerity and the world is starting to change. I can remember a time not that long ago that the BMC was wondering what it should do with all the money it had in its banks with a near £1 million bank balance. Ten years on and they are starting to look like they are falling on hard times. Although with 80% of the funding coming from membership subscriptions which are…

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Classic Crags: The Old Man of Hoy

Classic Crags: The Old Man of Hoy

A couple of years ago I was lucky enough to climb the Old Man of Hoy, via the classic route. I wrote an article that was butchered in Gravity magazine as well as made a short video. If any of you read the gravity article you might not have realised they inadvertently cut out half the text from the middle, I also have a topo, video and pictures. Stacked Up Years ago I saw an…

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Cirque of the Unclimabables: The Lotus Flower Tower

Cirque of the Unclimabables: The Lotus Flower Tower

Over the years having visited many places to rock climb the question of the best route often crops up. For me, there has always been one route that has stood out as the best I have ever climbed, The Lotus Flower in the Cirque of the Unclimbables, Canada. In part because of its quality and in part because of its remoteness. Above all its lengths means that for a fit team of climbers it is…

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Climbing Holidays

Climbing Holidays

Has reading about our adventures made you crave your own. Then why not have a look at the climbing holidays we have on offer at Vertical Life. As over the years the author of Vertical Life has visited many different climbing areas and experienced some amazing adventures. The type of experiences that in the most part money just can’t buy, until now. All our adventure are run by both high qualified and experienced coaches, instructors…

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An Exploration of Risk 

An Exploration of Risk 

The following is a chapter excerpt from Hanging By A Thread: The History, Science, Technology and Culture of Rock Climbing and Mountaineering. It is a self published book that explores rock climbing through a socio-technological perspective. It is available as an ebook(kindle), book and an iBook. Previous chapters detail how science and technology have affected our lives in general as well as the sport of climbing in particular. Arguably the single force that drove all scientific development…

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Head Coach: Self-Efficacy and Self Belief in Rock Climbing

Head Coach: Self-Efficacy and Self Belief in Rock Climbing

Climbing is primarily a head game; that moment of thrilling panic, as your breathe deepens and you face the only option, commit or fall. Crossing that line in the sand and facing life at its most primal, fight or flight! In that moment it’s not your strength or fitness that will get you through that dark alley, but your mind. Today, at the crag, you believe. You believe that you can do this, you’ve been…

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UK Classic Rock Climbs – Sub Cneifion Rib

UK Classic Rock Climbs – Sub Cneifion Rib

The Ogwen Valley, is one of the most distinctive and iconic of the great climbing valleys in the UK. Whilst not the most rugged, it framed at one end by tremendous Tryfan whilst the other by Pen Yr Ole Wen and the Nant Ffrancon guards it entrance, as a result the place maintains a sense of an alpine playground about it. The shapes are very glacial and it is a combination of that and the…

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Parisellas – Failure is an Option

Parisellas – Failure is an Option

The long greasy haired younger indie rock version of me had psyched himself up for a burn on Rock Atrocity, a tough V9 and one of the more infamous problems in the cave. The problem literally came into being when one of the early sports climbers armed with a drill started to ‘play about’ with the idea of ‘creating’ a some holds in this immense roof. Drilling not only a few three finger pockets but…

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Ascent of Man – Torre Winkler

Ascent of Man – Torre Winkler

Most of my writings on the ascent of man have revolved around the history of the route and the people associated with it, however here I was totally taken aback with this route when I climbed it in the same style. What the person achieved was mind boggling and I could find no way of highlighting just how amazing this feat of climbing was without referring back to my own ascent. The route is Winkler…

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