Creagh Dhu Wall

Creagh Dhu Wall

By the traditional standards of rock climbing in Wales, given that it has been at the forefront of the development of climbing since the 1800s, Tremadog is a relatively new kid on the block. As it was mainly developed from the 1950’s onwards, making it very much a post-war climbing area. The story goes that is was discovered during a snowy easter back in 1951, climbers in search of some climbable rock headed out of…

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Scrambles in Snowdonia

Scrambles in Snowdonia

Whilst fairly small on the scale of mountain ranges, Snowdonia packs a lot into its size. In part due to its history, whereby the ground was folded upwards many hundreds of thousands of years ago to give a massive upland region. The subsequent ice age and glacial erosion have given the area much of its shape and with it some of the best scrambling in the UK. Certainly some of the easiest to access scrambles….

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Classic Crags: Dinas Cromlech

Classic Crags: Dinas Cromlech

Whilst many crags in Llanberis Pass are strafed with quality routes and stunning lines, none quite match the beauty of the open book corner of Dinas Cromlech, home a selection of best routes across the grades in this Valley, if not the UK. Spiral Stair For Beginners there is both Spiral Stairs and Flying Buttress, both outstanding outings at the VDiff grade. Flying Buttress was first ascended by Menlove Edwards, a notable homosexual and pioneer…

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Classic Crags: Rainbow Slab

Well I feel that I am getting carried away with this best crag in the world idea, as North Wales seems to have way more than its fair share of these iconic and classic crags. I find it hard to see any gritstone crags that ‘stand out’ whilst there seem to be many crags that do in North Wales. I have been suffering from George Smithitus, in that I have failed to travel abroad or…

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Classic Crags: Dinas Mot

Classic Crags: Dinas Mot

I have to admit that there was no way I could have gotten away with describing Dinas Mot as one of the best crags in the world, However it is a classic venue for rock climbing, although probably not this time of year, as it rarely gets the sun during the summer let alone the winter. However I took a crag shot the other day, and threw together this topo. Basically Dinas Mot is a…

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Holyhead Mountain – Gogarth’s Little Brother

Holyhead Mountain – Gogarth’s Little Brother

  For most people the word Gogarth strikes the fear of god into them, loose intimidating sea cliffs that will destroy the sternest of resolves. The cliffs reputation is fairly well earn, however there is a shallow end to the pool and that place is Holyhead Mountain. A mere stones throw away from the main cliff but a million miles in terms of the types of climbing you are likely to find and the number…

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Porth Ysgo: Made in Heaven

Porth Ysgo: Made in Heaven

In the mid 1990s barely anyone had heard of Porth Ysgo outside a select few climbers and a few holiday makers touring the north west tip of wales. It is believed that Al Harris and his friends including Jim Perrin ‘discovered’ and relished in the climbing possibilities at the place in the 1970s. Yet it was still relatively unheard until the birth of the welsh bouldering scene in the late 1990s, when those who went…

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UK Classic Rock Climbs – Sub Cneifion Rib

UK Classic Rock Climbs – Sub Cneifion Rib

The Ogwen Valley, is one of the most distinctive and iconic of the great climbing valleys in the UK. Whilst not the most rugged, it framed at one end by tremendous Tryfan whilst the other by Pen Yr Ole Wen and the Nant Ffrancon guards it entrance, as a result the place maintains a sense of an alpine playground about it. The shapes are very glacial and it is a combination of that and the…

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Parisellas – Failure is an Option

Parisellas – Failure is an Option

The long greasy haired younger indie rock version of me had psyched himself up for a burn on Rock Atrocity, a tough V9 and one of the more infamous problems in the cave. The problem literally came into being when one of the early sports climbers armed with a drill started to ‘play about’ with the idea of ‘creating’ a some holds in this immense roof. Drilling not only a few three finger pockets but…

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Ascent of Man – Conquering Lliwedd’s Big Wall

Ascent of Man – Conquering Lliwedd’s Big Wall

There are many routes and cliffs that make up the early history of rock climbing in the UK, few are as dramatic as Lliwedd. Like any self respecting cliff its history goes back beyond climbers. In Lliwedd’s case to the legend of King Arthur. Where it is said after the King was buried at Bwlch Y Saethau the remainder of his men ascended Lliwedd and climbed down to the cave of youth on Snowdon, which…

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