Round the World in 40 Climbs: Episode 12: Font Firsts

Round the World in 40 Climbs: Episode 12: Font Firsts

So I went to font to look at the first of its grade for Font boulder problems. Whilst the first few were OK if a little terrifying, the middle grade felt easier before I was shut down on the first 7a! Fontainebleau Coaching Holidays We offer some amazing technique coaching holidays based around Fontainebleau and the bouldering there. We love these courses and the climbing is so intense that your technique will improve exponentially during…

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Porth Ysgo: Made in Heaven

Porth Ysgo: Made in Heaven

In the mid 1990s barely anyone had heard of Porth Ysgo outside a select few climbers and a few holiday makers touring the north west tip of wales. It is believed that Al Harris and his friends including Jim Perrin ‘discovered’ and relished in the climbing possibilities at the place in the 1970s. Yet it was still relatively unheard until the birth of the welsh bouldering scene in the late 1990s, when those who went…

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Parisellas – Failure is an Option

Parisellas – Failure is an Option

The long greasy haired younger indie rock version of me had psyched himself up for a burn on Rock Atrocity, a tough V9 and one of the more infamous problems in the cave. The problem literally came into being when one of the early sports climbers armed with a drill started to ‘play about’ with the idea of ‘creating’ a some holds in this immense roof. Drilling not only a few three finger pockets but…

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North Wales Climbs – Episode 3 – Oscar Eckenstein

North Wales Climbs – Episode 3 – Oscar Eckenstein

The third episode of the history of North Wales Climbing, this video is about Oscar Eckenstein. A lesser known climber but one who made some fantastic contributions to not only North Wales but climbing and mountaineering in general. You can find out more about him in the Evolution of Climbing Gear articles on this site, including inventing the first decent crampon. He also coached people on climbing movement of these the Eckenstein Boulders.

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Llanberis Pass Bouldering: The Wavelength Circuit

Llanberis Pass Bouldering: The Wavelength Circuit

For many Bouldering in the Llanberis Pass has been confined to the famous Cromlech Boulder, which are something of a roadside attraction. Whilst the bouldering there is fun, accessible and sociable, the climbing is a long way from the best in this iconic climbing valley has to offer. Only heading beyond a stones throw away from the road do you find the very best of the Pass bouldering. The highest concentration of classic problems and…

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Bouldering Circuit Destination: Caseg Fraith in the Ogwen Valley

Bouldering Circuit Destination: Caseg Fraith in the Ogwen Valley

I have recently decided that I have an awful job. In that every few months I get asked to put together a bouldering circuit in and around North Wales. Preferably one that hasn’t been cover either here or elsewhere for a long time. Over time this has become harder and harder as believe it or not there is only as limited amount of quality bouldering circuits to choose from. This months I was faced with…

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