Trad and Sport Climbing Adventures in Picos De Europa

Trad and Sport Climbing Adventures in Picos De Europa

Nearly everyone has heard of Roca Verdi now, the northern area of Spain that has a lush green feel to it. The impression many get is that it is a just another clip up destination in Spain. To go there for clipping bolts though is to totally miss the point of the area, as it is the adventure climbing that the area should bec.ome known for, sunny alpine rock climbing. An almost perfect place for…

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Funding Climbing: The BMC and Commercialisation

Funding Climbing: The BMC and Commercialisation

Nearly 10 years into the Austerity and the world is starting to change. I can remember a time not that long ago that the BMC was wondering what it should do with all the money it had in its banks with a near £1 million bank balance. Ten years on and they are starting to look like they are falling on hard times. Although with 80% of the funding coming from membership subscriptions which are…

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Your Dream Job: How to Become Climbing Coach

Your Dream Job: How to Become Climbing Coach

I am lucky enough to have my dream job as a climbing coach. There are many reasons I love this job, first off I am out doing the thing I love as often as possible, secondly, I love to teach and develop people at any level of climbing and thirdly I get to meet real people and in doing so learn and develop as much about myself as a climbing coach as I help them. How…

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Creagh Dhu Wall

Creagh Dhu Wall

By the traditional standards of rock climbing in Wales, given that it has been at the forefront of the development of climbing since the 1800s, Tremadog is a relatively new kid on the block. As it was mainly developed from the 1950’s onwards, making it very much a post-war climbing area. The story goes that is was discovered during a snowy easter back in 1951, climbers in search of some climbable rock headed out of…

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Scrambles in Snowdonia

Scrambles in Snowdonia

Whilst fairly small on the scale of mountain ranges, Snowdonia packs a lot into its size. In part due to its history, whereby the ground was folded upwards many hundreds of thousands of years ago to give a massive upland region. The subsequent ice age and glacial erosion have given the area much of its shape and with it some of the best scrambling in the UK. Certainly some of the easiest to access scrambles….

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Classic Crags: Dinas Cromlech

Classic Crags: Dinas Cromlech

Whilst many crags in Llanberis Pass are strafed with quality routes and stunning lines, none quite match the beauty of the open book corner of Dinas Cromlech, home a selection of best routes across the grades in this Valley, if not the UK. Spiral Stair For Beginners there is both Spiral Stairs and Flying Buttress, both outstanding outings at the VDiff grade. Flying Buttress was first ascended by Menlove Edwards, a notable homosexual and pioneer…

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Classic Crags: The Old Man of Hoy

Classic Crags: The Old Man of Hoy

A couple of years ago I was lucky enough to climb the Old Man of Hoy, via the classic route. I wrote an article that was butchered in Gravity magazine as well as made a short video. If any of you read the gravity article you might not have realised they inadvertently cut out half the text from the middle, I also have a topo, video and pictures. Stacked Up Years ago I saw an…

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Classic Crags: Rainbow Slab

Well I feel that I am getting carried away with this best crag in the world idea, as North Wales seems to have way more than its fair share of these iconic and classic crags. I find it hard to see any gritstone crags that ‘stand out’ whilst there seem to be many crags that do in North Wales. I have been suffering from George Smithitus, in that I have failed to travel abroad or…

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Classic Crags: Dinas Mot

Classic Crags: Dinas Mot

I have to admit that there was no way I could have gotten away with describing Dinas Mot as one of the best crags in the world, However it is a classic venue for rock climbing, although probably not this time of year, as it rarely gets the sun during the summer let alone the winter. However I took a crag shot the other day, and threw together this topo. Basically Dinas Mot is a…

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Cirque of the Unclimabables: The Lotus Flower Tower

Cirque of the Unclimabables: The Lotus Flower Tower

Over the years having visited many places to rock climb the question of the best route often crops up. For me, there has always been one route that has stood out as the best I have ever climbed, The Lotus Flower in the Cirque of the Unclimbables, Canada. In part because of its quality and in part because of its remoteness. Above all its lengths means that for a fit team of climbers it is…

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